Dear Cleo,

Dear Cleo (by Panache),

We need to talk.

You are my favorite bra brand right now, but there's still something important that I need to say.

You see, from the front, you are sensational. I own three bras from you, and I wear one of them more often than not, most days-- the Melissa, the Meg, and the Lily... and what can I say, they fit my body beautifully on the front. The straps don't cut into my armpits. The gore is narrow and lays perfectly flat on my sternum. The cups are just the right shape-- the give me an uplifted, front-and-center shape that works perfectly for my deep, close-set, balanced fullness bazooms. I can wear you all day, and know that you'll be supportive and comfortable.

I love knowing that you'll be there for me, in my closet, when I need you. You'll wear well and be a workhorse that can take a beating and keep going, without complaint. You'll have adorable designs, too, something rarely seen in a workhorse (though, of course, some more muted colorways would also be appreciated-- I love both fun and discreet! Sometimes I want to wear a thinner shirt, but I don't want people to know I'm wearing a bra with a neon parrot print!).

But, Cleo, there's a major issue I've encountered with you. I've talked to some other people, and it's not just me, either. I think if you can face this issue, and make some changes, you'll find even more admirers in your target market. And I hope and believe that you'll listen to feedback from your customers-- so I'm just going to say it.

Your bra bands are really unflattering on women's backs.

Cleo, you know and I know that women have a higher amount of subcutaneous fat (compared to men and due to estrogen)-- and really, that's good! It cushions us, it keeps us warm, it's metabolically healthier than visceral fat. If anything, it should be gently embraced! But, though you've chosen great material for the cup (and I want to give due credit for all the time you must have put into developing a great cup shape)... well, in the band, you use thin, really stretchy fabric, put a narrow elastic band at the top and the bottom, and call it done. Honestly, it just doesn't look good with that layer of protective fat over women's ribs.

It's not just me! But man, it's a big problem on me. Observe, much win and much fail in one bra.

Cleo Lily + lounging-around-the-house clothes.

The shape up front is fabulous, but from the back? I've got a fair amount of subcutaneous fat on my ribs, and I think the problem is emphasized due to my developed upper back musculature (from heavy weight training for years).

But Cleo, like I said, it's not just me. It's a problem for other women, too! By Baby's Rules. Knickers Nomad. Bras I Hate and Love didn't mention it in this post, but those pictures are of her in a Cleo bra. Sophisticated Pair mentions the band issue in almost every Cleo review.

You've done a lot of things right, Cleo, but it's gotta be said. We have good bodies, of different builds and fat distribution patterns. The problem is not us, it's you.

You can't truly expect us to be happy in a bra that looks fabulous from the front, but makes us look lumpy in the back-- we exist in three dimensions, and we should have clothing and undergarments that makes us feel attractive in all three dimensions.

I'm not an ogre, Cleo-- you've still got a lot going for you, kid. So I'm going to point out where I think you've gone wrong, and maybe, somewhere, a few seasons from now, you can get back on track and make things right between us again.

Unmodified Cleo Lily on the left, with my digitally-altered suggestions on the right.

These issues are less severe in other brands-- most full bust bras are going to have some compression on the back, due to the weight of the breasts that are being supported in the front. But it can be reduced by several factors:

1. Use band fabric with similar stretch to the elastic used at the edge of the band.
2.  Use wider elastic instead of the very narrow elastic bands used currently.
3. Use three hooks instead of two; or at least have more room in between the two hooks.

All three of  my suggestions focus on the same thing-- spread out the weight of the breasts on the back band-- it'll be more comfortable to wear, and it will reduce the lumpy back phenomenon.

Right now, the elastic at the sides is much less stretchy than the accompanying band fabric. The elastic provides all the firmness and support, while the fabric in the middle provides virtually none at all. This causes lumps to appear above and below the band. A firmer band (or one made of support elastic, or fabric covered elastic) with consistent firmness across the band will give a smoother appearance.

If we look good, Cleo, you'll look good. And we'll all buy even more Cleo bras!

Let's move forward, together, for a better-clothed and more comfortable tomorrow.

With much fondness,
Muscular Hourglass